Advisement

This blog is intended to share my experiences with you on what parts I use and how I use them and how I install them. I am sharing this information to help others who run into the same issues I may run into. I will be including lists of parts and tools as well as links to the items I have purchased. Please be sure to only use parts for your specific vehicle.

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Sunday, February 28, 2016

Exhaust - Catalytic converter and Resonator and A/F sensor upstream.

When I purchased my XB I took my scan tool to be able to check if there are any current or pending codes.

I found P0420 for low catalyst efficiency.   Usually when I see this it is because the Catalyst needs to be replaced.  This vehicle has 208,000 miles on it.  So the catalyst would be expected to be replaced.

I decided to do the work myself.   I went to Amazon.com and order a catalyst, resonator, muffler, Air/fuel sensor (the upstream one).   Clamps and gaskets to go with it.
Here is my overall approach to this job.

  1. I put the front end on jack stands to give me clearance.  
  2. I then disconnected the muffler clamp and muffler.  Leaving the muffler in the car. 
  3. I then removed the metal cross bar under the body preventing the exhaust from coming off and the rubber hangers. 
  4. I then removed the stock 14mm bolts holding the catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold. 
  5. I then installed the Walker Catalytic converter.
  6. I then installed the Walker Resonator and pipe clamp 35335
  7. I then connected the Resonator to the Muffler with Gasket 31577 and clamp 36519

Here are all the parts laid out how they go.  Overall I think the Walker parts match up to the factory ones well.  The hanger bars are in the right location and the flanges seem to be correct.  I continued to install them.

Overview - Left to right, Catalyst, Resonator.
side by side with the factory exhaust one piece.


The two parts slip together and I used the clamp to seal them. 



Factory gasket on the left, Walker on the right.

Removed factory exhaust clamp.

Separating the factory exhaust pipe.


Remove rear cross bar.


Lube up and removed exhaust from the rubber hangers

Removed Rear O2 sensor

Removed front O2 connector and catalyst bolts. 

I re-used the factory cat to manifold bolts.
Installed the Walker 53613 Ultra Import Converter and let hang.

Slipped the Walker 55467 Resonator Assembly into the catalyst and snugged down the clamp for the two pieces.

I put the clamp facing the drivers side to not interfere with the rear O2 sensor installation,  These are 14mm nuts.

Walker Exhaust 35335 Hrdwr-Clmp .
New Walker 31577 Exhaust Gasket .





Muffler Walker 36519 Exhaust Clamp

Walker clamp with 13mm nut and bolt.



Re-installed rear downstream sensor.


Upstream replacement sensor because the old one had gauld threads.  The Denso 234-4524 (Air and Fuel Ratio Sensor) comes with copper thread lube so I put some on the rear sensor before installing that one.  The Denso one comes pre-lube with black anti seize.   
Installed new Denso upstream sensor. Bolted right up and the connector was a match.  No issues on this one.

When all done and I started the car, I did notice the note was more quiet then before.  During driving to check for leaks and loose parts, I did notice the toned down sound.  I like that since my driving is more around town and I'm not a young kid trying to sound cool.  

Hope this was helpful.  If you have questions please let me know and I can add to this post.



Parts used. Walker 53613 Ultra Import Converter - Non-CARB Compliant , Walker 55467 Resonator Assembly , Walker Exhaust 35335 Hrdwr-Clmp , Walker 36519 Exhaust Clamp , Walker 54602 Quiet-Flow Stainless Steel Muffler , Walker 31577 Muffler Exhaust Gasket , Walker 31378 Exhaust Gasket Catalytic Converter , Denso 234-4524 (Air and Fuel Ratio Sensor)

Tools used - 1/2 inch drive ratchet, 1/2 drive 8 inch extension, 1/2 drive 14mm socket, 13mm box wrench, 14mm box wrench, adjustable wrench for oxygen sensors.



Time to complete the job - about 2 hours.



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9 comments:

  1. Did you have to do any welding? I was looking for a direct bolt on replacement

    ReplyDelete
  2. Hi. Thanks for reading my post. This is a direct bolt in set up as long as you replace from the manifold to the muffler. If you only replace the catalyst or only the resonator you will have to cut the old exhaust to slip in the new part. I didn't want to do any cutting so I replaced it all. It was worth it to me.
    Vince.

    ReplyDelete
  3. This DIY was extremely helpful. I just did the entire exhaust system, including the catalytic converter on my 05 Scion xB, and this is the best documentation out there. If I could add a few things that I experienced, it might help anyone reading.

    1) The OEM exhaust is a 1 piece system all the way to where it couples to the muffler. If you live in NY or CA, you have to purchase a CARB complaint catalytic converter (more $$$.) Absolutely go with the direct fit system from Eastern Catalytic...it's a 2 piece system (direct fit) but a great match.

    2) This wasn't mentioned in the above DIY, but be sure to take the new catalytic converter through the proper warm up procedure. The suggested procedure is: 1) allow car to warm up slowly for 5-7 minutes (DON'T TOUCH THE ACCELERATOR). 2) Hold the idle at 2500RPMs for 2 minutes 3) let car cool down. 4) repeat a few more times if needed.

    3) After install and during warmup, as well as for the first few road tests, I experienced a bunch of smelly white smoke coming from the new catalyst. I attributed this to the new wire gasket on the manifold and shipping oil (sprayed to prevent rusting) on the new unit. I've learned that it takes a few drive cycles for the smoke and smell to evaporate.

    Again - THANK YOU for this guide, it was a real lifesaver for a recent install.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Wow. Thank you so much. I'm glad it helped out. Thanks for adding in the break in for the CAT and the CARB compliant points. I appreciate you taking the time to comment. About how long did your install take?

      Delete
    2. Probably 4 hours for everything from start to finish. 2 hours for the removal of the old system. 2 hours for the install and break in of the new system. I live in Syracuse, NY so everything was heavily rusted. I spent a few days beforehand soaking the two manifold bolts heavily with PB Blaster.

      I used Rhino ramps on the front and jack stands for the rear. It's a bit of a pain to have to lay on your back for everything. It's not too bad for the removal because you can let the old parts drop. All of the new parts have to be lined up, held, then bolted in. I crushed my thumb once when I dropped the catalyst trying to hold and bolt it in all at the same time.

      This is absolutely a job that an average/slightly above average DIYer can tackle. Probably rated a 5 out 10 in terms of difficulty.

      Again, this blog helped put my mind at ease that the job was possible to do in my garage. I cannot thank you enough for the pictures and write-up.

      Delete
  4. Awesome. Great idea to use the ramps. How did you come across the post?

    ReplyDelete
  5. I need to replace everything from the manifold on back on my Daughters 2006 XB .. I searched for video's and only found one but it wasn't well made or informative .. I searched Google for "2006 Scion XB Catalytic replacement" and found your post .. Very nicely well laid out directions with photo's .. I can now know exactly what to expect when I crawl under it tomorrow. Thanks

    ReplyDelete
  6. Catalytic converter replacement cost I would like to say that this blog really convinced me to do it! Thanks, very good post.

    ReplyDelete
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