Clutch replacement

Yikes, my clutch is slipping when I step on the gas hard and when I'm letting out on the clutch pedal.

Just a note This is not a step by step explanation of how to replace your clutch, only my commentary on my experience doing it myself.   

So last weekend I replace the clutch in my Scion XB.  It was showing signs of slipping. When I would accelerate the RPMs would rise faster than expected in the vehicle speed would not accelerate as best as I had expected. Being on a budget I wanted to find parts that were cheap but also of quality.

So after searching around on Amazon and on eBay I decided to purchase an XTD clutch from an eBay seller. Here is the link to my purchase page.  Click Here. Normally I would go with a name brand such and LUK, or EXEDY, but money is tight.

I tried researching this brand of clutch but found that it was either hit or miss. Some people claim to have problems with their clutch but others seem to be perfectly happy with with the product they received. I decided to give it a try and hopefully it would've worked out. I ordered the clutch and received it within a couple of days.

I purchased the stage one version which includes the higher capacity clutch plate a clutch disk and a throw out bearing and the clutch alignment tool. Mine did not come with a pilot bearing or bushing.  According to the instructions the kit would have come with it if it was needed.

Removing the transmission from my Scion XB was fairly straightforward. No matter what I tried to do however there was no way to get around removing the sub frame in order to gain clearance to remove the transmission. Once the transmission was out and I removed my original clutch plate I found that my clutch disk was getting glazed which was causing my slipping.

It took me about 2 days to complete the job over the labor day weekend.  I did it in my garage and with only 1 floor jack.  Luckily the trans is not to heavy and I could maneuver it myself.  Lift and turn to align the down pins on the engine and trans that is.   Just be sure to have some added support so it does not fall on you.   Also, I didn't have an engine holder, so I used some long 2x4s and some ratcheting straps around the engine to hold it up in place.   Yeah, it was budget, but I'm not buying that engine holder for 1 job. Keep in mind that you have to lower or remove the subframe to get the trans out, be sure to mark the struts to the spindles so they go back in the correct spots and you don't have to re-align your car.    Be sure to have extra axle bolts if you take them off.

Now, Normaly I recommend replacing the transmission input shaft seal, and the engine rear main oil seal, but I did not want to pull off the flywheel and I didn't want to remove the bell housing for the trans seal.  So I inspected and didn't find any oil leaks, so I'm leaving them as they are.

Dusty but no signs of oil leaks

My old throw out bearing was still good, however since I had a replacement one as part of the kit I went ahead and replaced it.  I am a little worried that the XTD throw out bearing may not last very long.  I came across a couple online reviews of the bearing and found sometime they fail quickly.   

Old Throw out bearing is still in good shape.

My old disc was getting glazed and hard spots causing my slipping clutch.  

New clutch cover and old one side by side.

New and old clutch disk side by side.  New one has more springs in the center.  Should be smoother engagement.

I decided to reuse my flywheel since it didn't look like it had hot spots, dis coloring, or glazing on the surface.   I used a sanding disc to rough up the surface and put a non directional finish on it.  Just like on brake rotors and drums.  

Non directional swirl finish so the clutch disc will break in.

Checking my new disc against my existing flywheel.  Remember to put the larger side facing the transaxle or the clutch will not work. 

Diameter of the flywheel and disc match.

The clutch cover plate bolts it on easily.  Be sure to tighten the bolts evenly and in the correct order.   

Repair manual torque spec and bolt pattern

While my vehicle was torn down, I discovered that all my mounts were deteriorated.   The rear mount and trans mount were broken and the engine right mount was week and I could flex it easily by hand.
So I went to my local Oriely's auto parts and got 2 of the mounts.  I'll wait for the trans mount at another time.   I also discovered my sway bar link bushings are bad.   More work of another time.

After reassembly the car drives much better than previously. I can feel positive engagement with the clutch, and the smoother engagement at the clutch pedal.  Engagement point feels just as it did with the stock disk and I don't feel much difference in the amount of petal pressure I need to apply to disengage. As of 09-09-16 I have put about 200 miles on the clutch and haven't noticed any problems.  It feels very stock and functional.   Its not a racing clutch so I don't expect to feel anything different.

Its meeting my expectations so far.

As a sidenote I installed regular gear oil and previously I was using Lucas gear oil. I can feel my shifter engage smoother and without grinding.

Do you have any questions or comments.  Please ask.  

Thank you so much for reading this.  Hope it helps you out.   

Vince.

Tools: 

1/2 inch drive impact, 

Sockets - 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, in deep, shallow, and swivel.   Half inch drive.

Ratchets - 1/2, 3/8, 1/4 drive.

Parts:

XTD clutch kit.

Rear engine mount

 

Right Engine mount. 

75w-90 gear oil.  

Stores:

Ebay

Oreily's auto parts.

Stereo replacement

I didn't like the stock stereo.  I really wanted Bluetooth connectivity and to play music from my 80gig Apple IPod.  

I decided to buy a JVC KW-R910BT unit.   It has the bluetooth hands free I wanted, I can control my iPod through the usb connector and it has and aux input.   I has the normal CD, FM, AM as well.  It will take up the whole space from the stock unit and I just thought it would be more appealing.

Metra wire kit IBR-WHTY2. I used this wiring kit to plug directly into the factory harness.  Installing was a breeze with the this.

It has instructions on what each wire is for.  It is super simple to connect to the JVC stereo. 

I used Metra install kit 95-8202.  This was to fill the gaps left between the stereo and the factory bezel trim.

The included instructions are helpful but could  be better. 

The packaging for the install kit. 

What the pieces look like. 

• This is how I replaced the stereo.

Remove the knobs.  Then you can remove the two phillips screws.   

Next remove the silver trim bezel around the console.

Remove the 10mm bolts holding the stereo to the car. There are 4 of them.  I used a magnet to remove the screws once they were loose  

Then remove the 4 factory 10mm bolts holding the mounting brackets to the factory stereo. (This photo is after I already installed the brackets to the JVC Unit.  But you get the idea)

• At this point I connected the Metra Wiring kit to the JVC unit wiring harness.  I don't have pictures of that process, but it was really easy using the Metra wiring schematic in the package.  Basically just connect Grey to Grey, Blue to Blue, etc.   I used crimp style terminals to butt the wires together.  

So Here I installed the mounting brackets and the install kit.  Notice the install kit piece sits just back of the face of the JVC stereo.  To me this is the appropriate position.  When I first installed the stereo the pieces sat forward of the JVC (next picture) and I thought it look bad.  So I redid it like this picture. 

Here the install kit was sitting forward of the JVC unit at the top.   I didn't like it. 

Here are the screw positions I used to get the kit to sit more flush with the JVC stereo. 

Another angle to see the kit and the factory mounting screw locations. 

Another angle to see the fit kit installed flush.

I then installed a USB cable to connect my iPod to the JVC unit.  I ran the cable to the side and behind the HVAC controls. 

The cable ran down the inside of the center console and over into the glovebox. I just ran  the cable over the edge of the glove box.  No need to cut any holes or anything. 

Completed and back in place.   Looking good with the trim install kit sitting pretty flush with the rest of the trim.


When pairing the JVC unit to your phone via bluetooth, be sure to follow the JVC unit instructions.  I didn't read them fully and thought I knew everything, but it turns out that you need to accept the pairing on the JVC unit in order for it to stay connected.  As well as accept it on your phone. 

There it is.  Hopefully this information is helpful.

Parts used in this post- JVC stereo, metro wiring kit, metro mounting kit spacers, crimp terminals (to connect the Metra wire kit to the JVC wire harness) , electrical tape.




Tools used in this post - Phillips #2 screwdriver, pick, magnet



What information do you want to know about?  Do you have questions I didn't answer in this post?  Leave a comment or email me.

Thanks
Vince

Hidden 12 power outlet install

I have a Garmin Nuvi GPS unit inside my vehicle.  I use it frequently in personal and business life.  I enter in addresses and location of bartending events.  I use it to check traffic along the way to places both personal and business related.   One of the things that bothers me is having the power plugged into the cigaret lighter port.   It sticks out and occasionally gets in the way of me shifting.  It also looks ugly.  One of the things I wanted to do in  my previous vehicle was to wire in a power port behind the dash somewhere so it was not visible and would power on with the car.  

So I purchased a cigarette light socket port with a pigtail lead from Amazon.com

I started by removing the lower panel containing the cig lighter and ash tray.   They all just pull out so its not too difficult.  Now i had access to the connectors.   Note, the positive connector is the smaller one.   Ground is the larger one. 

I installed these connector adapter splitters.  They let you add a circuit while keeping the original circuit.   They are great.  Just be sure that nothing else can touch the positive terminal.   I would put electrical tape or something similar around any exposed metal of the positive terminal so it doesn't short out.  I used crimp on female spade terminals to connect the power socket wires.

Notice that the top connector has been ground down a little to be small enough for the factory positive connector to fit. 

Cig light wires connected with female terminals.

Factory connector in place with the second circuit in place.  

I ran the wire down from the factory light to the panel just below. 

I set the whole assembly in between these ducts behind the lower  panel.  It is held snug.

All buttoned up and lower cover re-installed. 

Ran the wire under the dash, past the steering column and up through the speaker grill.

Fits just right in the lower corner. 

Tools used in this post- pick, connector crimper, sand paper (to grind down the positive terminal)

Parts used in this post
Female spade connectors,  connector adapter,  cig lighter socket,.



What else can I share. Tell me your thought or comments or requests.  I'd love to hear them.

Thanks.
Vince.