Clutch replacement

Yikes, my clutch is slipping when I step on the gas hard and when I'm letting out on the clutch pedal.

Just a note This is not a step by step explanation of how to replace your clutch, only my commentary on my experience doing it myself.   

So last weekend I replace the clutch in my Scion XB.  It was showing signs of slipping. When I would accelerate the RPMs would rise faster than expected in the vehicle speed would not accelerate as best as I had expected. Being on a budget I wanted to find parts that were cheap but also of quality.

So after searching around on Amazon and on eBay I decided to purchase an XTD clutch from an eBay seller. Here is the link to my purchase page.  Click Here. Normally I would go with a name brand such and LUK, or EXEDY, but money is tight.

I tried researching this brand of clutch but found that it was either hit or miss. Some people claim to have problems with their clutch but others seem to be perfectly happy with with the product they received. I decided to give it a try and hopefully it would've worked out. I ordered the clutch and received it within a couple of days.

I purchased the stage one version which includes the higher capacity clutch plate a clutch disk and a throw out bearing and the clutch alignment tool. Mine did not come with a pilot bearing or bushing.  According to the instructions the kit would have come with it if it was needed.

Removing the transmission from my Scion XB was fairly straightforward. No matter what I tried to do however there was no way to get around removing the sub frame in order to gain clearance to remove the transmission. Once the transmission was out and I removed my original clutch plate I found that my clutch disk was getting glazed which was causing my slipping.

It took me about 2 days to complete the job over the labor day weekend.  I did it in my garage and with only 1 floor jack.  Luckily the trans is not to heavy and I could maneuver it myself.  Lift and turn to align the down pins on the engine and trans that is.   Just be sure to have some added support so it does not fall on you.   Also, I didn't have an engine holder, so I used some long 2x4s and some ratcheting straps around the engine to hold it up in place.   Yeah, it was budget, but I'm not buying that engine holder for 1 job. Keep in mind that you have to lower or remove the subframe to get the trans out, be sure to mark the struts to the spindles so they go back in the correct spots and you don't have to re-align your car.    Be sure to have extra axle bolts if you take them off.

Now, Normaly I recommend replacing the transmission input shaft seal, and the engine rear main oil seal, but I did not want to pull off the flywheel and I didn't want to remove the bell housing for the trans seal.  So I inspected and didn't find any oil leaks, so I'm leaving them as they are.

Dusty but no signs of oil leaks

My old throw out bearing was still good, however since I had a replacement one as part of the kit I went ahead and replaced it.  I am a little worried that the XTD throw out bearing may not last very long.  I came across a couple online reviews of the bearing and found sometime they fail quickly.   

Old Throw out bearing is still in good shape.

My old disc was getting glazed and hard spots causing my slipping clutch.  

New clutch cover and old one side by side.

New and old clutch disk side by side.  New one has more springs in the center.  Should be smoother engagement.

I decided to reuse my flywheel since it didn't look like it had hot spots, dis coloring, or glazing on the surface.   I used a sanding disc to rough up the surface and put a non directional finish on it.  Just like on brake rotors and drums.  

Non directional swirl finish so the clutch disc will break in.

Checking my new disc against my existing flywheel.  Remember to put the larger side facing the transaxle or the clutch will not work. 

Diameter of the flywheel and disc match.

The clutch cover plate bolts it on easily.  Be sure to tighten the bolts evenly and in the correct order.   

Repair manual torque spec and bolt pattern

While my vehicle was torn down, I discovered that all my mounts were deteriorated.   The rear mount and trans mount were broken and the engine right mount was week and I could flex it easily by hand.
So I went to my local Oriely's auto parts and got 2 of the mounts.  I'll wait for the trans mount at another time.   I also discovered my sway bar link bushings are bad.   More work of another time.

After reassembly the car drives much better than previously. I can feel positive engagement with the clutch, and the smoother engagement at the clutch pedal.  Engagement point feels just as it did with the stock disk and I don't feel much difference in the amount of petal pressure I need to apply to disengage. As of 09-09-16 I have put about 200 miles on the clutch and haven't noticed any problems.  It feels very stock and functional.   Its not a racing clutch so I don't expect to feel anything different.

Its meeting my expectations so far.

As a sidenote I installed regular gear oil and previously I was using Lucas gear oil. I can feel my shifter engage smoother and without grinding.

Do you have any questions or comments.  Please ask.  

Thank you so much for reading this.  Hope it helps you out.   

Vince.

Tools: 

1/2 inch drive impact, 

Sockets - 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, in deep, shallow, and swivel.   Half inch drive.

Ratchets - 1/2, 3/8, 1/4 drive.

Parts:

XTD clutch kit.

Rear engine mount

 

Right Engine mount. 

75w-90 gear oil.  

Stores:

Ebay

Oreily's auto parts.