Advisement

This blog is intended to share my experiences with you on what parts I use and how I use them and how I install them. I am sharing this information to help others who run into the same issues I may run into. I will be including lists of parts and tools as well as links to the items I have purchased. Please be sure to only use parts for your specific vehicle.

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Tuesday, March 15, 2016

Stereo replacement

I didn't like the stock stereo.  I really wanted Bluetooth connectivity and to play music from my 80gig Apple IPod.  

I decided to buy a JVC KW-R910BT unit.   It has the bluetooth hands free I wanted, I can control my iPod through the usb connector and it has and aux input.   I has the normal CD, FM, AM as well.  It will take up the whole space from the stock unit and I just thought it would be more appealing.




Metra wire kit IBR-WHTY2. I used this wiring kit to plug directly into the factory harness.  Installing was a breeze with the this.


It has instructions on what each wire is for.  It is super simple to connect to the JVC stereo. 




I used Metra install kit 95-8202.  This was to fill the gaps left between the stereo and the factory bezel trim.

The included instructions are helpful but could  be better. 
The packaging for the install kit. 
What the pieces look like. 






  • This is how I replaced the stereo.



Remove the knobs.  Then you can remove the two phillips screws.   
Next remove the silver trim bezel around the console.
Remove the 10mm bolts holding the stereo to the car. There are 4 of them.  I used a magnet to remove the screws once they were loose  

Then remove the 4 factory 10mm bolts holding the mounting brackets to the factory stereo. (This photo is after I already installed the brackets to the JVC Unit.  But you get the idea)

  • At this point I connected the Metra Wiring kit to the JVC unit wiring harness.  I don't have pictures of that process, but it was really easy using the Metra wiring schematic in the package.  Basically just connect Grey to Grey, Blue to Blue, etc.   I used crimp style terminals to butt the wires together.  


So Here I installed the mounting brackets and the install kit.  Notice the install kit piece sits just back of the face of the JVC stereo.  To me this is the appropriate position.  When I first installed the stereo the pieces sat forward of the JVC (next picture) and I thought it look bad.  So I redid it like this picture. 

Here the install kit was sitting forward of the JVC unit at the top.   I didn't like it. 

Here are the screw positions I used to get the kit to sit more flush with the JVC stereo. 

Another angle to see the kit and the factory mounting screw locations. 
Another angle to see the fit kit installed flush.




I then installed a USB cable to connect my iPod to the JVC unit.  I ran the cable to the side and behind the HVAC controls. 


The cable ran down the inside of the center console and over into the glovebox. I just ran  the cable over the edge of the glove box.  No need to cut any holes or anything. 


Completed and back in place.   Looking good with the trim install kit sitting pretty flush with the rest of the trim.


When pairing the JVC unit to your phone via bluetooth, be sure to follow the JVC unit instructions.  I didn't read them fully and thought I knew everything, but it turns out that you need to accept the pairing on the JVC unit in order for it to stay connected.  As well as accept it on your phone. 







There it is.  Hopefully this information is helpful.

Parts used in this post- JVC stereo, metro wiring kit, metro mounting kit spacers, crimp terminals (to connect the Metra wire kit to the JVC wire harness) , electrical tape.




Tools used in this post - Phillips #2 screwdriver, pick, magnet



What information do you want to know about?  Do you have questions I didn't answer in this post?  Leave a comment or email me.

Thanks
Vince

Monday, March 14, 2016

Hidden 12 power outlet install

I have a Garmin Nuvi GPS unit inside my vehicle.  I use it frequently in personal and business life.  I enter in addresses and location of bartending events.  I use it to check traffic along the way to places both personal and business related.   One of the things that bothers me is having the power plugged into the cigaret lighter port.   It sticks out and occasionally gets in the way of me shifting.  It also looks ugly.  One of the things I wanted to do in  my previous vehicle was to wire in a power port behind the dash somewhere so it was not visible and would power on with the car.  

So I purchased a cigarette light socket port with a pigtail lead from Amazon.com




I started by removing the lower panel containing the cig lighter and ash tray.   They all just pull out so its not too difficult.  Now i had access to the connectors.   Note, the positive connector is the smaller one.   Ground is the larger one. 

I installed these connector adapter splitters.  They let you add a circuit while keeping the original circuit.   They are great.  Just be sure that nothing else can touch the positive terminal.   I would put electrical tape or something similar around any exposed metal of the positive terminal so it doesn't short out.  I used crimp on female spade terminals to connect the power socket wires.

Notice that the top connector has been ground down a little to be small enough for the factory positive connector to fit. 
Cig light wires connected with female terminals.


Factory connector in place with the second circuit in place.  

I ran the wire down from the factory light to the panel just below. 





I set the whole assembly in between these ducts behind the lower  panel.  It is held snug.

All buttoned up and lower cover re-installed. 


Ran the wire under the dash, past the steering column and up through the speaker grill.
Fits just right in the lower corner. 




Tools used in this post- pick, connector crimper, sand paper (to grind down the positive terminal)

Parts used in this post
Female spade connectors,  connector adapter,  cig lighter socket,.



What else can I share. Tell me your thought or comments or requests.  I'd love to hear them.

Thanks.
Vince.

Sunday, March 6, 2016

Front Strut Replacement

In this post I'm showing you the unboxing of my strut boots, the spring compressor I purchased, the removal and replacement of the struts and boots.   

So when I bought my Scion XB I knew I needed to replace both front and rear shocks and struts.   I ordered the complete set of them from Amazon.com.   I found  2030 - SENSEN Shocks Struts, Full Set, 4 Pieces, with Lifetime Warranty as being the best price for the full set.  I was a little hesitant but  decided to try them due to the budget constraints.   

I didn't have a spring compressor.  I debated on just taking the strut assemblies down to the local shop to have them do the work, but then I decided I would rather buy the tool and do the work at home.   So I purchased ABN MacPherson Strut Spring Compressor.  

Lastly, I also order dust boot covers since I assumed my factory one will need replacement. I ordered. KYB SB102 Strut Boot kit from Amazon.com too.   I originally ordered 2 of them, however once they arrived and checked them, one of the boots was wrong.  So I contacted amazon.com and they ship a replacement next day delivery.  That's freaking awesome.    They are a hard plastic materials not rubber like the factory.  I don't know if they will hold up as long but we will see.  

I'm showing pictures of the unboxing of my replacement boot below.  



Received my amazon replacement boot. 


My replacement boot.

Part number 102 for my 2006 Scion XB


Inside the box is a plastic boot and a foam material bump stop.



You have to assemble the two pieces. I used a little grease to help.

A little grease around this shoulder.



To assemble I slid the bump stop through the larger opening at the bottom.

Push the bump stop all the way through.


Next you have to pul the bump stop till the should sits in the groove at the top.  Careful because it is easy to pull the stop all the way through. 


Be sure it is seated al the way around. 


I took some flat black paint and painted the white bump stop.  However later I learned you don have to do that.  More to come. 




Here is the spring compressor I purchased from amazon.com. 
ABN MacPherson Strut Spring Compressor.  This thing worked great.   It has some great features for the great price.   The parts that "grab" the spring coils are wide and get good surface area.  I really like that.  They feel thick and heave material so I want scared they would snap off or bend.  The threaded rod is thick and has a 1/2 in drive square in the end for a ratchet to connect to.  That was a great feature.  I also loved the pin that you slide over the coils to help keep the spring in the tool while setting it up.  



I started on the Drivers side strut.  Mine had 208k miles on them and definitely could tell they were bad.  All the bumps in the road were harsh and I got lots of road vibration through the cabin.

I started by putting the drivers side on a jack stand and removing the wheel.



I loosened up the 12mm top bolts. 

I removed the Speed sensor wire from the clip. 

I removed the 14mm bolt holding the Brake line and speed sensor wire bracket. 



Next I removed the 19mm nuts and bolts from the strut and knuckle. 








Removed the nuts from the top and remove the strut assembly.


The full assembly


Installing the spring compressor and using the pins to hold it in place while tightening the clamp.


Using a 1/2in drive ratchet to tighten each side 10 turns at a time. 

Spring compressed and tension released from the  top cap. 


The new strut next to the old assembly.  The new one was a match.  Brackets in the right positions, and overall spring seat was correct.

Removed the factory 17mm nut.

Removed the top bearing.

Removed the top plate.

What it looks like inside.

Removing the original boot and spring cushion.

The factory bump stop was broken and beat up bad. 





Comparing the new boot with the old one. 

Installed the new boot and stop.

Boot seated all the way down.

The old boot won't go over the new one so I cut off the old  boot to keep the top spring cushion.
The old spring seat will go over the new parts like this. 

Pulling out the old strut. 

Installing the new strut and making sure the spring goes in the right spot on the strut. 

Putting the spring cushion on and aligning the pieces. 





The hole in the top spring plate has 2 flat sides.  Be sure the spring is compressed enough that the plate goes all the way down the mate the the piston rod of the strut.   You need to hold this plate to prevent the piston rod from spinning when tightening the nut on top. 

Set the plate in place. 

The spring cushion has nubs on the back, be sure they go through the proper holes for alignment. 


Be sure the spring is positioned correctly.

Install the top bearing and new nut supplied with the strut. 

The completed assembly. 

Release tension from the spring equally on both sides and remove the tool.

Re-install the top nut dust cover. 

Install the assembly to the vehicle.  



Hand tighten the top nuts.

Install the bottom bolts and nuts.

Be sure to remove the wire clip from the old strut and install it to the new one. 

Bottom bolts and nuts installed and tightened. 

Install the brake hose and speed sensor brackets.
The finished product.  Installed and ready to go.  


Something I noticed was that I cut the factory boot cover too short .  I should have left more to cover the bump stop better. I left more when I did the Passenger side and it looked better.  See the next picture. 
Passenger side assembly.  I left more of the factory boot to better cover the new bump stop.  Much better this time. 

Looks better leaving more of the factory original boot to cover the bump stop. 

Overall it took me about 2-2.5 hours to complete.  Keep in mind I also took all the pictures so I'm sure I could have done it quicker too.

I have driven for a day or two now and really noticed a change in how the car handles.   The acceleration feels better and the stopping feels better.  This si because the new shocks and struts help to firm up the suspension.  The rear shocks help put the torque to the road by preventing so much squat.  The from help braking by preventing so much front end dip.   I also noticed the turns feel firmer and less body roll.   Road noise is a little less and I don't bottom out in dips and driving into my driveway.  The shocks have really made a noticeable difference and I like them so far.



Tools used in this post -

Tools: 12mm wrench, 14mm socket, 17mm socket, 19mm socket, impact gun, 1/2 ratchet, 3/8 ratchet, pick, pryer, razor blade,  ABN MacPherson Strut Spring Compressor



Parts used in this post -





 Let me know if you have any questions or would like more detail. Thanks for reading.